ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE STAGE 1 & 2

BEFORE ASSEMBLY-

PLEASE READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY!

    When you receive your FREEDOM RYDER take a moment and inspect the box for shipping damage. Often the bike will be in good shape even if the outside of the box is slightly damaged . However, it is a good idea to tell the driver and call UPS immediately if there is any substantial damage to the outside of the box because each FREEDOM RYDER is fully insured. You must call UPS first, then call us to arrange for shipping instructions and we will replace the handcycle or send replacement parts. Fortunately freight damage is a very rare occurrence.

    Tools required for assembly: 3/16"&1/4" Allen wrench, 7/16", 1/2" & 9/16" wrench, large framing square.

    Depending on the tools that you have available, you may want to take your FREEDOM RYDER to a bike shop and have it assembled. After you have completely read the assembly instructions you will be able to determine if you wish to assemble your FREEDOM RYDER yourself. All adjustments to the drive train have been made at the factory and we feel you will find the assembly is quite straight forward.

    After you have inspected your FREEDOM RYDER, assemble it in the following sequence:

    1. Take all the components out of the box and remove all protective packaging.

    2. Remove the small box and verify that it contains the following:

(2) T-handles.

(2) leg support brackets with (2) bolts, (2) locknuts, (1) plastic bushing, and one O-ring each.

(2) handlebar grips and end caps.

(2) aluminum leg supports with (2) nylon straps each.

Your FREEDOM RYDER is comprised of the following pieces:

The front frame piece consists of the front wheel and drive train.

The " L" shaped seat tube which supports the seat and includes the rubber grommets, bolts and flat washers.

The rear frame piece which supports the handlebar and rear axle.

The rear axle.

The handlebar.

The steering dampener.

The two piece seat.

    3. Take the " L" shaped seat tube and the rear frame piece and lay them on a carpeted floor or on a table on a soft surface like a towel to protect the paint. (See Fig. 1) Remove only the nuts from both grommet bolts leaving the large washer on the lower grommet bolt. Slide this bolt through the hole in the 1" square tube. Put on the locknut and tighten until the grommet is slightly compressed. Push the bolt in the upper grommet back into the grommet so it is flush with the edge of the grommet. Tighten the lower grommet until the upper grommet bolt comes into alignment with the hole in the plate of the rear frame piece. Now push the upper grommet bolt through the hole in the rear frame piece and gently tighten the locknut until the grommet is slightly snug. Now you may need to slightly loosen the lower grommet bolt until the lower grommet is slightly snug. Be sure not to over tighten the grommets, however, larger riders may need to tighten both lower and upper grommets to reflect their body weight. Progressively tightening the grommets will improve higher speed stability for larger riders. HOWEVER, DO NOT TIGHTEN GROMMETS TO THE POINT WHERE STEERING IS IMPAIRED.

    4. Take the steering dampener and remove only the locking nuts. (See Fig. 1) Point the shaft of the dampener to the rear and slide the bolts up through the mounting tabs on the "L" tube and the rear frame. Be sure the spacer on the shaft end is between the shock eyelet and the frame. Tighten securely.

    5. Now take the handlebar with its knurled center sleeve (or plastic shim)and slide it through the handlebar clamp in the front of the rear frame tube. (You may need to loosen the screw and gently pry open the clamp with a screwdriver). The handlebar is detachable for easy transport. Center the handlebar and slightly tighten the allen head capscrew in the clamp. For final adjustment, with the wheels on, your grip ends should point back parallel with the ground. Then be sure to tighten the pinch bolt securely. Put some slightly soapy water inside the rubber grips and on the handlebar ends. Slide the grips over the handlebar ends. Push the handlebar end caps into the handlebar ends.

    6. Take the rear axle assembly and remove the four locknuts and flat washers from the four mounting bolts. You must hold the bolt stationary with the 1/4" allen wrench when you remove the locknuts and replace them. The axle blocks are clamped on the axle at the factory to hold the proper alignment of the rear wheels for toe-in and toe-out. The axle blocks must not be allowed to come loose or the rear wheels must be realigned. Now slide these four mounting bolts through the four holes in the plate at the back of the rear frame piece. Now put the four flat washers and locknuts on the four bolts and tighten slightly, final adjustment comes in step 10.

    7. Take one of the rear wheels, push the detent button on the axle pin and insert the axle pin through the wheel bearings in the recessed side of the hub. Now insert the axle pin into the axle hole on the left side of the rear frame tube. Be certain that the quick release button returns all the way out or your wheel could come loose while riding!

    8. Now take the other wheel and axle and following the same procedure attach the wheel to the right side of the rear frame.

    9. Have someone stand the front frame section up onto the front tire with the two 3/4" dia. tubes pointing towards the rear frame. Now grab the handlebar and raise the rear frame section a few inches. Slide the two 3/4" tubes into the 1" x 3" rectangular tube. Notice that the rectangular tubing has a small hole drilled vertically through it. Take the small clevis (locking) pin, and from the top, slide it all the way through the tube locking the front frame section in the proper position for your particular arm length - for proper adjustment see the sheet titled IMPORTANT INFORMATION.

    10. Now check to see that when viewed from the rear the rear frame is perpendicular to the ground. (See Fig. 2) You must use a framing square to check frame position. If it is not perpendicular then loosen the four axle mounting nuts and move the rear frame to the left or right slightly until it is perpendicular to the ground. This adjustment is very important, if the frame leans one way or the other the bike will not track straight. After alignment tighten nuts securely while holding bolts with a wrench.

    11. The two seat pans use carriage bolts. These bolt’s heads have a square shape that locks into the square holes in the seat pans so you do not need to remove the cushions when you loosen the nuts. When loosening the nuts or mounting the seat pans, push on the cushion in the position of each bolt as needed to hold the heads in place. Mount one side of the seat pan at a time and leave the first nut and washer loose, then install the second nut and washer and tighten both securely. Now slide the flag into the small round tube that is welded inside the 1"X 2" rectangular tube behind the seat.

    12. Take the leg stirrups and mounting brackets and notice there is a right and left side to each. You will notice the right side bracket is angled slightly. Slide the right mounting bracket, with the white plastic bushing and the O-ring in front, onto the right stirrup and under the first nylon strap so it is between the two straps. If you squeeze the stirrup tubes together slightly you will put slack in the tubes and the brackets will slide under them. Do the same for the left side. Now after you have installed the two mounting bolts through the brackets slide them through the two middle holes in the mounting tabs on the front of the frame. The additional holes in the frame tabs are provided for extra adjustment if needed. Be sure to hold the brackets straight with the frame tabs and tighten securely. Position the length of the stirrups so that your legs have a slight bend at the knees and there is some pressure on the balls of your feet. Position the stirrups in such a manner that the stirrups are parallel with the ground when viewed from the front. The stirrups are easy to align if you look across the stirrup tubes from the side and position them so all four tubes are in alignment with each other.

    13. There are two hand pedals and each pedal is marked left and right with a big "L" and a big "R" on the end of the pedal spindle at the threaded end. The right hand pedal goes on the right side of the FREEDOM RYDER as you sit on it and the left pedal on the left side. The right hand pedal has right hand threads and screws in clockwise as you face the right side of the bike. The left hand pedal has left hand threads and screws in counter-clockwise as you face the left side of your bike. Tighten the pedals securely using the proper size wrench.

    14. Have fun and ride safely.

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Webmaster: Mike @ Freedomryder.com

Last modified: 04/12/05