LC-1 ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

READ THESE INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY BEFORE ASSEMBLY!

Tools needed for assembly:

wire cutter pliers

1/2” end wrench for pedal shafts

9/16” end wrench for lower pivot bolt & nut

7/16” end wrench for telescoping crank adjusting nuts and steering dampener nuts

10 mm end wrench for lower brake stay pivot bolt nut

3/32” Allen wrench for the wide crank indexing screw

1/4” Allen wrench for rear wheel hubs

5/16” Allen wrench for rear pivot bolt and front pivot bolt

4 mm Allen for telescoping crank adjusting bolts

5 mm Allen for rear axle clamps

6 mm Allen for all telescoping section clamps (handlebar, footrest and crank adjustment)

    Carefully cut all Ny-ties from the bike with wire cutter type pliers - a knife is too dangerous and may cut you or damage the bike. Lay the front frame on its right side. Now, take the rubber bushing and bolt, remove the nut and bolt but leave the washer under the head of the bolt. Run the bolt down through the hole in the lower plate of the front frame then slide the rubber bushing over the bolt. Now, take the rear frame and slide the front part of the frame with the sleeved hole up over the bolt and secure with the nut. Be sure to screw the nut on so that the bolt is sticking through it with between 1/4” and 3/8” of thread showing. IF THE BIKE SEEMS FLOPPY WHEN FIRST RIDDEN, YOU CAN ADJUST THE COMPRESSION OF THE RUBBER BUSHING BY TIGHTENING THE NUT TO MAKE THE STEERING FIRMER. HOWEVER, BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER TIGHTEN RESULTING IN DIFFICULT STEERING. Also, after riding the bike for awhile the nut can be relaxed to reduce compression and make steering easier. Remove the large Allen bolt from the back of the front frame using a 5/16” Allen wrench and carefully align the ball socket on the rear frame with this hole. You may have to flex the rear frame slightly to align these holes - this is normal. Now securely tighten the Allen bolt through the ball socket.

Remove the bolts, nuts and ”0”-ring from the steering dampener. Run one bolt down through the hole in the triangle shaped arm on the left side of the front frame and another down through the hole in the small tab on the rear frame. There are two holes on the small tab on the rear frame. The dampener mounting bolt for the LC-1 and the S.T.I. go through the smaller hole towards the front of the bike and the dampener bolt for the Twist-Shift goes through the larger hole towards the rear of the bike. Now slide the “o”-ring up over the front bolt. Then for the S.T.I. with large body of the dampener toward the front and the shaft to the rear, slide both ball sockets up over both bolts and tighten securely using the 4mm Allen wrench and the 7/16” end wrench. The “o”-ring should now be between the triangle shaped arm and the shock eyelet. Do the same for the Twist-Shift but in this case there is rubber eyelet on the body of the dampener that goes toward the front and the ball socket toward the rear of the bike and 9/16' and 7/16” wrenches and sockets are required to secure them.

Take the rear frame and loosen the rear axle clamp bolts very loose, but do not remove them completely, making sure a few threads are still holding them in. Observe that the rear axle has a screw through the axle shim. Remove the screw that is offset to one side. Now observe that the frame’s axle clamp has a hole drilled in the bottom. Lay the rear frame on its left side. Hold the axle so the offset hole is away from you. As you install the axle into the frames right side, do not rotate the axle into the frame clamp. You must slide it or tap it straight in. Now align these two holes and carefully screw in the locking screw - do not over tighten this screw (It is only a locating screw and over tightening it can strip the threads). Tighten the axle clamp bolts - also being careful not to over tighten them. Your rear axle is now perfectly aligned and will remain aligned each time you remove the axle if you use the locating screw.

You may now screw the rear wheels into the axle. Keep the stud straight with the hole and start the threads carefully, stop if you feel any resistance at all and start again. Be sure to tighten so the washer on the axle stud makes contact with the surface of the aluminum axle lug. Tighten securely. When removing the rear wheels be careful not to lose the washers from the axle studs.

Insert the quick-release axle into the front wheel from the left side (opposite the gears). As you slide the front wheel into the dropouts be sure to pull the chain down from the rear of the dérailleur and around the free wheel gears correctly. To give you more slack and make it easier, you may take the chain off the crank sprockets and let it rest on the bottom bracket. You may also lift up on the dérailleur arm if you need more slack. With the wheel inside the frame face the front of the bike and hold each side of the front frame near the axle. Using your index fingers lift upwards on the quick-release axle to guide it into position. If the brake shoes are tight against the tire, loosen the cable at the adjustment barrel. Remember to readjust it after you have mounted the front wheel. After the wheel is mounted check to be sure it is completely seated into the drop-out slots. Be sure to tighten the axle lever securely. Now, if you lift up on the lower dérailleur arm you will put more slack in the chain and you can put the chain back over the crank sprockets.

You may now attach the leg supports. Be certain to first loosen the aluminum clamp on the front frame fork completely. After slightly loosening the rear nylon straps on the leg supports(leave strap threaded through the “D”-rings), slide the leg supports into the front frame. Notice that there is a left and a right leg support and mount accordingly. If you need more slack to move the straps over the clamps, just push in on the outside part of the stirrup and it will flex to give you the slack you need. Slide each support in so it extends several inches forward of the front wheel, final adjustment will come later.

If you have trouble sliding the handle bars or leg supports into the plastic shims, try removing the aluminum clamp and sliding it over the aluminum tube. Now slide the plastic shim part-way over the aluminum tube. Now slide the shim into the frame pushing the shim in along with the aluminum tube, bottoming the shim first then slide the aluminum tube in the required distance - keeping the shim split aligned with the frame split. Now, slide the aluminum clamp into position. These shims will not be as tight the next time you use them and will be easier to install.

If needed use the same method for mounting the handlebars. The bars should be slid in about 1 1/2”- 2”. Now tighten the handle bar clamps securely.

To mount the seat pans do not remove the seat cushion. The bolt heads

fit into square holes and won’t turn. When removing or installing the seat pans, push on the cushion in the location of the bolt heads to hold the bolts out. Start one washer and nut, but leave it loose before starting the other washer and nut. The seat back has three adjustment holes. Place the seat back low enough so the top does not contact your shoulder blades. Now install the seat bottom.

LEG ADJUSTMENT:

Sit in the bike and with the help of a friend begin final adjustment of the leg supports. Move them forward or backward to the approximate adjustment position with the clamps still loose. Now tighten the rear nylon straps on each support slightly to support your calf. Your legs should have a slight bend at the knees and you should have some pressure on the balls of your feet. Now, when the length adjustment is correct, align the stirrups horizontally by looking across the four stirrup tubes from the side and position them so all four tubes are in alignment with each other. The supports should both look flat with respect to each other when viewed from the front. If you adjust the front straps so your feet drop too low, your heels may contact the ground when doing a slow tight turn. Be sure the straps remain threaded exactly as they were from the factory. The loose ends of the straps should never hang down on the bottom side of the straps. They should be laying on the upper surface of the strap and fastened on the Velcro.

LC-1CRANK ASSEMBLY AND CRANK ADJUSTMENT:

If you have purchased an LC-1 or and S.T.I. with the new wide cranks then you must attach the cranks to the bike bottom bracket. Tight tolerances make the shaft fit very closely when inserting into the bottom bracket. Carefully push the shaft and it will pass through the bottom bracket. A bike shop may be helpful at this stage of the assembly. The cranks come with a series of shims and spacers (located on the shaft and separated by nylon ties) that must be inserted in the same order that they appear on the shaft when putting the cranks on the bike. There will be a black outer ring, then a silver spacer next to the sprocket. Reach your finger into the bottom bracket from the left side of the bike and lift the red spacer tube inside the bottom bracket to center it, then slide the shaft of the crank into and through the bottom bracket from the right side with a gentle pushing motion. Push the shaft all the way through. Now slide the silver shim and then the other black spacer ring onto the shaft. The two black rings look the same but are slightly different. The black ring with the wider boss goes on the right side of the bike and the shorter boss goes on the left side; both bosses face towards the inside and the shims go between the bosses and the bearing cups on each side of the bottom bracket.

Take the left side crank arm, remove the alignment screw with the 3/32” Allen wrench, place the left arm over the shaft and slide it up against the left side black spacer ring. Put the alignment screw through the alignment hole and tighten slightly. This screw is for alignment only and will not carry the torque of the cranks. Now firmly tighten the clamping screw with a 5 mm Allen wrench. This screw must be tight to carry the torque of the cranks. This part of the assembly may require a phone call to us or help from a bike shop, although if time is taken and assembly is approached with patience anyone can complete this part of the assembly.

Try riding the bike first before adjusting the location of the cranks so you know where to position them, With your back against the seat back, you should have a slight bend in your elbows when the cranks are in the farthest position. To adjust the crank position loosen the two aluminum clamps completely, loosen the two bolts that hold the aluminum adjustment tubes and loosen the two bolts at the bottom of the brake stay on the drop-out plates.

Apply slight pressure and then use a tapping motion against the cranks to slowly and gradually move the cranks into position. If you simply push on them they may slide the adjustment tubes completely out of their frame holes. Maintain no less than 1 1/2” overlap of the adjustment tubes. After you have completed the positioning of the cranks, securely tighten all clamps and the bolts at each pivot point.

If you locate the cranks in the lowest and furthest rearward position your chain may be too long when you have it shifted to the smallest sprocket on the cranks and the smallest sprocket on the wheel. (The bike should never be ridden with the chain in this position, if the chain is on the smallest sprocket on the cranks it should only be shifted between the largest and middle sprocket on the wheel.) Similarly if your cranks are positioned in the highest most forward position your chain may be too short when shifted to the largest sprocket on the cranks and the largest sprocket on the wheel. ( Again, the bike should never be ridden in this position.) In the event you must locate the cranks in the furthest forward and up, positions, you may add more links if needed.

DAMPENER ADJUSTMENT:

The dampener has a lever on the side that lets you adjust the dampening for varying speeds and conditions. If you are riding slowly you may reduce the amount of dampening and make it less noticeable when turning. However, if you are riding at speeds above twelve miles per hour it is very important to increase the amount of dampening to eliminate the possibility of “bump-steer”. We provide the variable dampener to increase performance. It is your responsibility to increase the dampening when riding at higher speeds or on rough terrain.

Thank you for reading these instructions and for purchasing a new SUPERBIKE. Ride safely and have fun!

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Webmaster: Mike @ Freedomryder.com

Last modified: 04/12/05